Over the years our season here as extended to take in the shoulder months of November and December. One of the main attractions is the opportunity to surf this right hander further south. Most of the expats have gone home, so aside from the odd intruder, it is the stage for the return of the Tom and Gerry show.
I am no gun surf photographer - I don't even own a water housing for my camera, and if I did, I wouldn't be hanging out in the wall, treading water to within an inch of going over the falls. Plus I get too distracted, turning my lens to the rockpools, trees and shells. I like to consider myself more of a surf documentary photographer; capturing the moments between the waves, the rituals and habits of Aquaman and his mates.