Sunday, November 20, 2011

the short walk to freedom

Over the years our season here as extended to take in the shoulder months of November and December. One of the main attractions is the opportunity to surf this right hander further south. Most of the expats have gone home, so aside from the odd intruder, it is the stage for the return of the Tom and Gerry show.

I am no gun surf photographer - I don't even own a water housing for my camera, and if I did, I wouldn't be hanging out in the wall, treading water to within an inch of going over the falls.  Plus I get too distracted, turning my lens to the rockpools, trees and shells.  I like to consider myself more of a surf documentary photographer; capturing the moments between the waves, the rituals and habits of Aquaman and his mates.

1 comment:

  1. I am with you no dog paddling in the break for this chick!! Although i have had some fun with underwater shots, in a totally safe environment though!!!
    Your life looks amazing, whilst I love Paris I long for tranquility and as you have chosen "the simple" day. We have started the project in my husband's home town inPuglia Italy it is gonna be a long one though ha!
    Love your pics and peak into your Indo life,


thanks for taking the time

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